Controllers: The Wild Side

Step 10: Matte the Controller
If you’re using a two-color pattern, wrap the cut-out stencil around the controller parts. (If you’re using more than two colors, place a stencil for the second bottom-most color, and repeat the next two steps for each color with a new stencil as you work your way up.) Begin with the top half of the controller. Apply glue from school-supply glue sticks directly to the paper, then press it down to form a strong seal. If you just tape the edges of the stencil in place, lots of gaps will form, letting the vinyl spray leak under your pattern — so make the seal as tight as possible. Work the stencil around the controller curves, making sure that it leaves no gaps. Scrape off any excess glue, being sure the non-matted surface stays clear.

Step 11: Add the Detail Layers
Work again with five or six light coats in increments of about 10 minutes. After several more hours of drying time, remove the matte and gently scrape up any remaining glue. If your design wraps around the different sections of the controller, cut out and apply a new stencil, taking care to align it with what you’ve already done. If you’re working with more than two colors, apply the stencil for the next color now — just repeat Step 10 for every additional color and layer. Allow significant drying time between each step and before Step 12.

Step 12: Reassemble the Buttons
Snap the D-pad back into place on the top half of the controller, and screw its two screws back into place. With that half face-down, drop the buttons back inside; they all have special tabs to fit only in the correct slot. Gently layer masking tape on the face of the controller to hold the buttons in place. Place the D-pad rubber membrane loop around the lower-right post, with the contacts facing out.

Step 13: Reattach the Circuit Board
Set the circuit board into the bottom half of the controller. Set the rumble motors back into place. If you’re using a wired controller, be sure the indentations in the cord align with slots in the case seam. Check to see that the flat part of the rubber membranes is clean. Then lay those parts back over their proper contact points, corresponding with the D-pad and the A, B, X, Y, Start, Back, and Guide buttons.

Step 14: Close the Case
Insert the gray (unless you just painted it) plastic part that fits around the headphone jack back into its slot on the bottom of the controller, and reassemble the shoulder buttons into the top. Reattach the top part of the case, snapping it into place with the buttons matching the rubber membranes below. If you have trouble fitting the rumble motors back into place, try nudging them into place with the casing half-closed. Work slowly; if you have to fidget too much, the rubber membranes will become misaligned, and you’ll have to back-track. Reinsert the seven screws.

Step 15: Test the Controller
Connect a battery or plug in the wired controller, and give it a test spin. Try every button (including the Guide, Start, and Back buttons) to make sure they all work properly. And make sure you test the D-pad — you want the same tight fit you had before. If you have any problems, go back to step 13; check to make sure that the rubber membrane and circuit board are properly aligned, as that’s most likely the culprit.

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